Glycation is the number one cause of aging and L+A invited Jacine Greenwood, founder of Roccoco Botanicals to contribute this article on Glycation and she offered some interesting points on the topic, especially, Glycaction and microneedling.
Thanks to Roccoco Botanicals for sponsoring this content so that we can share information on Glycation with the L+A Community.
Glycation is the number one cause of aging. A condition that is characterized by being difficult to treat, glycation is a non-enzymatic chemical reaction that occurs when sugars, such as glucose or fructose, react with proteins, lipids, or nucleic acids. This process leads to the formation of harmful molecules called advanced glycation end products (AGEs). AGEs have been closely linked to skin aging, contributing to a decline in skin elasticity, resilience, and overall appearance. As skin ages, collagen and elastin fibers in the dermis become stiffer and less functional due to the accumulation of these glycated molecules.
Fluorescent and Non-Fluorescent AGEs
Approximately 40 types of AGEs have been discovered, and they are classified into two major categories: fluorescent AGEs and non-fluorescent AGEs. The distinction between the two lies in their ability to emit fluorescence under specific lighting conditions, which plays a critical role in their detection and study.
Fluorescent AGEs
Fluorescent AGEs are those that emit light when exposed to ultraviolet (UV) or visible light, making them easier to detect. Some well-known fluorescent AGEs include:
- Pentosidine
- Pyrropyridine
- Methylglyoxal–lysine dimers
- Glyoxal–lysine dimers
These fluorescent AGEs are particularly interesting because of their distinctive chemical structures and properties. For example, pentosidine, a fluorescent AGE, emits yellow-green light under UV exposure and is commonly found in collagen and elastin fibers. Pentosidine forms through the glycation of lysine and arginine residues in proteins, and its accumulation is associated with the natural ageing process as well as various age-related diseases. As pentosidine builds up in the skin, it contributes to the degradation of the skin’s structural integrity, leading to a visible loss of elasticity, firmness, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Non-Fluorescent AGEs
In contrast, non-fluorescent AGEs encompass a broader range of glycated proteins and lipids that do not exhibit fluorescence. These types of AGEs, while harder to detect, are equally as damaging to skin health. Some well-known non-fluorescent AGEs include:
- Nε-(Carboxymethyl) lysine (CML)
- Nε-(Carboxyethyl) lysine (CEL)
- Glucosepane
- Methylglyoxal-derived AGEs (argpyrimidine, imidazolone)
- 3-deoxyglucosone-derived AGEs
Non-fluorescent AGEs like Nε-(Carboxymethyl) lysine (CML) and Nε-(Carboxyethyl) lysine (CEL) are often found in skin proteins like collagen. The accumulation of these AGEs makes collagen fibers more brittle and less elastic. Over time, this contributes to the appearance of aged skin, including sagging and deeper wrinkles. One particularly significant AGE is glucosepane, which is the most abundant in ageing human tissue and is resistant to breakdown, leading to lasting effects on the skin’s structure and appearance.
Glycation and Microneedling
Glycation causes cross-linking of proteins like collagen and elastin, making them stiff and rigid. This stiffening reduces the skin’s ability to bounce back, leading to the visible signs of aging such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and sagging. Microneedling works by creating tiny controlled injuries in the skin, triggering the body’s wound-healing response and stimulating collagen production.
However, when the skin’s existing collagen is already compromised due to glycation, stimulating more collagen production might not have the desired effect. The collagen produced in a glycated environment can still be prone to the same stiffening and cross-linking. Therefore, microneedling could increase collagen without effectively improving the skin’s flexibility or reducing the signs of glycation. In fact, it may lead to a temporary improvement in texture without addressing the root issue.
A common myth circulating among estheticians and skincare professionals is that once glycation has occurred, the damage it causes is permanent and cannot be reversed. While it is true that glycation can have long-lasting effects on the skin, this belief is an oversimplification. Recent advancements in skincare science suggest that while glycation is difficult to fully reverse, there are strategies that can slow its progression, prevent further damage, and even repair some of its effects.