Regardless of the specific skin concern a client has, maintaining a healthy epidermal barrier is essential. This outermost layer of the skin plays a key role in retaining vital moisture while shielding against bacteria and environmental debris. Skin craves products with actives that will work hard to restore and then protect the skin’s barrier. When the barrier is properly supported, it can naturally restore itself, leading to soft, smooth, healthier, and less sensitive skin.
Barrier supportive ingredients help maintain the skin’s lipid balance, preventing it from getting overly dry or excessively oily. Habits such as over-exfoliation or harsh cleansing can compromise the barrier, leading to dryness or increased oil production. A strong, healthy barrier helps prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL), calm inflammation, and maintain a balanced skin microbiome.
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It’s important to understand that a strong, healthy skin barrier isn’t achieved through one treatment or protocol alone. Instead, it develops over time through the regular use of both professional and at-home products that are formulated with barrier-supporting ingredients while also targeting other skin concerns. Keep in mind that not all skincare products will promote “barrier support” so keep an eye out for these active benefit ingredients.
7 Barrier Support Actives
1 Ceramides
Ceramides help reinforce the skin’s protective barrier function, supporting the recovery of dry, compromised skin. Effective ceramides are “skin-identical,” meaning their chemical structure mirrors the ceramides naturally found in the skin. Products formulated with ceramides provide both immediate hydration and lasting defense against dryness, and they help rebalance the skin’s natural essential lipid layer.
2 Niacinamide
Commonly known as Vitamin B3, niacinamide aids in barrier repair but is also highly multifunctional. In addition to supporting the skin’s barrier, it helps to brighten skin, maintain an even tone for healthy-looking radiance, and minimize the appearance of pores. Niacinamide is generally well-tolerated, making it an effective tool for multiple skin concerns and skin types.
3 Bearberry Leaf Extract
Another multitasker, Bearberry, is a powerful antioxidant that rivals Vitamin C in its antioxidant potential. It is a natural skin-brightening compound that contains arbutin and gently helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots by reducing inflammation that can lead to hyperpigmentation. While best known for its brightening properties, bearberry extract also promotes hydration, which helps maintain the skin’s moisture barrier.
4 Bisabolol and Centella Asiatica
These soothing actives are key to promoting healing and reducing inflammation– helping to counteract the potential irritation of powerful ingredients like retinol or high-dose Vitamin C. Soothing ingredients are also important post-procedure and after sun exposure, playing a role in barrier recovery by reducing inflammation and redness of the skin.
5 Succinic Acid
Acids don’t have to be harsh. For sensitive skin, look for this gentle, fermentation-derived acid. Succinic acid works by speeding up cellular turnover without harsh exfoliation. It helps rebalance the surface of the skin at a non-irritating pH level (5.0-5.5), with a chemical structure similar to the skin’s own lipid barrier. This gentle acid also helps keep sebum levels in check to keep the skin properly moisturized and balanced.
6 Hyaluronic Acid
HA is well known for supporting the skin’s moisture barrier, but the key is to use HA with multiple molecular weights for layered hydration. High and mid molecular weight HA provides instant hydration, moisturizing the skin at the surface after a single application. It even helps protect the skin from dehydration by creating an invisible film that reduces water loss and enhances barrier function. Deeper hydration comes from low molecular weight HA, which penetrates the epidermis and binds and holds onto water in the dermis.. This HA “sandwich” maximizes moisture delivery to the skin.
Topical HA can also help stimulate the skin to produce more of its own HA for deeper moisturization. The result of multiple molecular weight HA is skin that is visibly nourished, smoother, and firmer looking, and that feels less sensitive.
7 Zinc Oxide
The ultimate support for the skin barrier is daily protection from the harmful effects of UV rays. Zinc oxide is a mineral sunscreen ingredient that provides protection against both UVA and UVB, is extremely gentle, and protects the skin’s surface by reflecting away UV radiation rather than absorbing it into the skin. Today’s zinc oxide formulas can be elegant in look and feel, so your clients can find one they will enjoy wearing every day.
A healthy skin barrier is vital to skin that looks and feels its best and remains resilient over time. Carefully crafted protocols and home care guidance that incorporate barrier-supportive actives can help balance the skin and enhance overall treatment outcomes.
Contribution by Lorraine Lampe
Lorraine Lampe is a Senior Scientist in Research and Innovation for Fallene, Ltd., maker of TiZO. With a BS in Chemistry from Fairfield University and 17 years of experience in the skin care industry, Lorraine brings a wealth of expertise to creating innovative, effective, and elegant products for TiZO. She thrives on educating consumers about sun protection and skin care products, so they understand the science behind protecting and repairing their skin.