AHA CHEMICAL PEELS FOR SKIN OF COLOR: NOVICE TREATMENT PROTOCOL

by JoElle Lee

Peel Treatment #1: Enzyme Peel 

• Perform Enzyme Peel and record how intense the peel feels to the client. For example, on a scale of 1-5, five being the most intense, record the number level of peel intensity.
• Send client home with low percentage acid-based product to prep skin for higher percentage peels. If treating acne, send client home with acid-based acne home care products
• If you are treating hyperpigmentation or melasma, start client on a hydroquinone-based product or natural lightening products. 
• Have client use lightening agent on whole face at night and whole face in the morning for 2 weeks. For the following 2 weeks have client use the lightening agent on the whole face at night and spot treat in the morning.
• Client returns in one month for next enzyme peel. 

Peel Treatment #2: Enzyme Peel 

• Check with client to ensure there was no downtime or contraindications from the last enzyme peel.
• Perform enzyme peel again, if client barely feels the intensity of the enzyme peel, make a note that you can introduce the client to a low percentage AHA or BHA peel at the next visit.
• If treating PIHP or melasma, have the client continue to use the lightening agent on the whole face at night and spot treat in the morning for the next 2 weeks. 
• Client returns in 2 weeks for next chemical peel. However, if the client continues to feel the enzyme peel at a high intensity, do another enzyme peel in one month before moving on to treatment #3.

Peel Treatment #3: Low-Grade Buffered Chemical Peel

• Check with client to ensure there was no downtime or contraindications from the last enzyme peel.

• Introduce client’s skin to a low-grade buffered 10 to 15% AHA or 3% or lower BHA chemical peel. 
• Use a timer and leave the peel on 3-5 minutes. The peel should feel most intense in the first minute and then should start to subside right after that. You can also use a small fan to minimize the discomfort of the peel. Continue to check the peel while it is on to ensure there is no frosting or allergic reaction to the skin.
• Record how intense the peel feels to the client. For example, on a scale of 1-5, five being the most intense, record the number level of peel intensity.
• Remove peel and be sure to use calming agents and sunscreen post peel procedure.
• If treating PIHP or melasma, have the client continue to use the lightening agent. Only now, the client will use it on the dark areas only or spot treat, morning and night for the next 2 weeks. 
• Client returns in 2 weeks for next chemical peel.

Peel Treatment #4: Low-Grade Buffered Chemical Peel

• Check with client to ensure there was no downtime or contraindications from the last chemical peel.

• Introduce client’s skin to a low-grade buffered 10 to 15% AHA or 3% or lower BHA chemical peel. 
• Use a timer and leave the peel on 3-5 minutes. The peel should feel most intense in the first minute and then should start to subside right after that. You can also use a small fan to minimize the discomfort of the peel. Continue to check the peel while it is on to ensure there is no frosting or allergic reaction to the skin.
• Record how intense the peel feels to the client. For example, on a scale of 1-5, five being the most intense, record the number level of peel intensity.
• Remove peel and be sure to use calming agents and sunscreen post peel procedure.
• If treating PIHP or melasma, have the client continue to use the lightening agent on the dark areas only, morning and night for the next 2 weeks. 
• Client returns in 2 weeks for next chemical peel.

Peel Treatment #5: Low-Grade Buffered Chemical Peel

• Check with client to ensure there was no downtime or contraindications from the last chemical peel.

• Introduce client’s skin to a low-grade buffered 20% to 30% AHA or 3 to 5% BHA chemical peel. 
• Use a timer and leave the peel on 3-5 minutes. The peel should feel most intense in the first minute and then should start to subside right after that. You can also use a small fan to minimize the discomfort of the peel. Continue to check the peel while it is on to ensure there is no frosting or allergic reaction to the skin.
• Record how intense the peel feels to the client. For example, on a scale of 1-5, five being the most intense, record the number level of peel intensity.
• Remove peel and be sure to use calming agents and sunscreen post peel procedure.
• If treating PIHP or Melasma, have the client continue to use the lightening agent. Only now, the client will use it on the dark areas only, at bedtime for the next 2 weeks. 
• Client returns in 2 weeks for next chemical peel.

Peel Treatment #6: Low-Grade Buffered Chemical Peel

• Check with client to ensure there was no downtime or contraindications from the last chemical peel.

• Introduce client’s skin to a low-grade buffered 20% to 30% AHA or 3 to 5% BHA chemical peel. 
• Use a timer and leave the peel on 3-5 minutes. The peel should feel most intense in the first minute and then should start to subside right after that. You can also use a small fan to minimize the discomfort of the peel. Continue to check the peel while it is on to ensure there is no frosting or allergic reaction to the skin.
• Record how intense the peel feels to the client. For example, on a scale of 1-5, five being the most intense, record the number level of peel intensity.
• Remove peel and be sure to use calming agents and sunscreen post peel procedure.
• If treating PIHP or Melasma, have the client continue to use the lightening agent on the dark areas only, at bedtime for the next 4-6 weeks when they receive their monthly maintenance program treatment.
• Send client home with complete at-home product regimen to maintain results.
• Client begins maintenance program and returns in 4-6 weeks for next chemical peel treatment and at this point should no longer need lightening agents.